My mouse will reconnect/disconnect (will even hear the sounds from Windows), and the light on the bottom of the mouse will turn off/turn on as it starts working again. It really sucks to be playing a game (and happens on desktop as well) for the mouse to just die out for a few seconds and come back. Sometimes it will not happen for days and other times it will do it two or more times within 15 seconds. I tried two different wired mice, tried multiple USB ports (on the front of the computer, back of the computer, used a USB hub and plugged in a card that connects to the USB connectors on the motherboard and adds a few USB ports to the back of the computer, and I also bought a USB 2.0 PCI card and that did not help).
Nothing else seems to reconnect like this, my USB keyboard has never once cut out like the mouse does and neither have any of the other devices I have connected (webcam, USB hub, various devices sometimes connected through USB cables, and IR receiver for windows Media Center remote). I have disconnected all USB devices except for my keyboard and mouse and the problem still occurs. I guess it could be something wrong with my motherboard but since no other devices behave similarly I'm just hoping that it is some kind of driver conflict. Installing Logitech's drivers has had no effect. It seemed at first that if I go to and uninstall mouse (that and Logitech mx518 are listed) that would fix it, but it doesn't seem to work anymore or at least not every time (it keeps re-installing).
I have googled 'USB mouse disconnects and reconnects', and it seems to be fairly common but none of those were resolved. To stick some easy steps:. It happens with or without the drivers installed. It has happened with multiple mice on the same computer. The BIOS is the latest version (P08).
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I have Windows 7 PC (not bootcamp) and a Apple USB keyboard (Model A1243) and a apple mouse (Model A1152). Neither of these things perform teeibly effictively under Windows 7 (Home Premium 64 bit) The keyboard has a problem with its control key for selecting multiple files.
Motherboard drivers are the latest version. Device Manager isn't listing any problems on any USB devices. Happens with every USB port, even addon USB cards. Happens when all USB devices aside from mouse and keyboard are unplugged I read that maybe it is an IRQ conflict, and I tried to look into that but did not really know what was going on, but didn't see anything obviously wrong. Specifications:. CPU. EVGA 780I SLI motherboard.
4 GB RAM. mouse.
Windows 7 64-bit. screen card. 650 W power supply (single rail). If you're experiencing mouse lockups or failures, it may be because your computer is automatically turning off the power to a USB Root Hub. Go to your Control Panel System Hardware tab and click on the 'Device Manager' button. In the Device Manager window, find the item or items labeled 'Universal Serial Bus controllers.' Open it, and double-click the first item called 'USB Root Hub.'
. In the USB Root Hub Properties dialog, click on the 'Power Management' tab. 'Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power' is checked by default. Uncheck this box, and click 'OK.' If this does not work, do the same for the USB Input Device - uncheck the box 'allow the computer to turn off this device to save power. (this worked for me) and stopped the annoying way the mouse would go in and out.
Supposedly: This issue can occur when the device enumerator located at HKEYLOCALMACHINE SYSTEM CurrentControlSet gets corrupted. As a result, the mouse attached to the USB controller is duplicated and the system gets confused. Periodical attemtps to remove the dupe are discarded after re-detecting the mouse attached to the controller. That page recommends a system restore or uninstalling the USB device in Device Manager.
In addition to uninstalling the device itself, you can uninstall all the USB root hubs on your machine, and they will be reinstalled after a reboot, as recommended in this HP article. 5.Double-click Universal Serial Bus Controllers to expand the list. 6.Right-click the first USB Root Hub in the list and then select Uninstall. Continue uninstalling all USB Root Hubs.
Download Usb Mouse Driver
You can also uninstall all previous instances of the device (and the root hubs) using a tool like. It will show you all devices that have ever been installed, even if they aren't currently plugged in, and you can uninstall them from there, so the 'detected new hardware' thing will pop up the next time you plug it in. Sort them by vendor ID, select everything related to that product, right click, and uninstall them all.
I'm not sure if the registry corruption is truly the cause, and I'm not sure if this actually fixes it, but it's worth a try. It seems to be working for my most recent experience with this problem. From what you describe, nothing immediately comes to mind what the cause of the issue you are observing might be. A few things to keep in mind:. The longer it takes to reproduce the failure, the longer it'll take to debug unless you are lucky.
Your best bet is to try to find a way to reproduce the failure as quickly as possible. You can count on experience and a consistent method of debugging (i.e. The 'shotgun' debugging approach rarely produces the expected results - not that I'm saying that is what you are using). Typically, I would start with a minimum system setup to rule out the variables (1 CPU, 1 CPU Fan, 1 DIMM, 1 Video Card, 1 Hard Drive, 1 Power Supply, etc.).
How to Import DVD to iMovie on Mac OS X. IMovie for Mac enables you to import VOB files on homemade DVDs, but it lacks native support for importing commercial DVDs. To Rip Blu-ray movies, please follow this article on converting Blu-ray for editing iMovie. Q: I filmed footage on a mini DV tape and then put the footage on my Mac. I now have the footage on a DVD, in which it plays back on iDVD. I want the footage to. Nov 16, 2018 - Step 3: Select an output format, such as MP4, which is the key part of the whole DVD to iMovie ripping process. Step 4: Choose a destination folder and start to RUN the DVD to iMovie ripping on Mac. After that, Open iMovie, import DVD (MP4 file) to iMovie, and then start your editing in iMovie. I want to put all of those on 1 DVD as each is not very long. So how do I get those into iMovie on my iMac with El Capitan in the proper format? This article will tell you how to import DVD movies to iMovie for edit on Mac OSX. Step 2 Click 'DVD Ripper' tag in the left panel and choose 'Normal' in the. Free dvd rippers for mac.
It is best if you have all 'known good' components. Then, try to rule out subsystems. Unfortunately, at home you likely have limited tools and resources, so you have to improvise smartly.
Rule out the OS/drivers (easy if you have spare CD's & hard drives):. Does this happen when you run the system from a Linux boot CD?. Does this happen with any other OS installed?. Does this happen with a clean install of your current OS? Rule out the keyboard and mouse:. Do your keyboard and mouse/mice always work on a another system? Rule out the motherboard power rails:.
Does the 5V rail at the USB slots stay near 5V or does it dip (a meter may tell you this, but an oscilloscope can give you a better idea if the power rail dips)?. What does the 5V rail look like on the PCI USB card? This answer might now solve your problem, but hopefully it'll move you towards finding the cause of the issue. If the issue still shows up after a clean install of Windows 7 from Vista, then that points to the hardware (either motherboard, power supply, or mouse/keyboard). Since another mouse also fails, then I would inspect the motherboard, specifically around the USB connector and South Bridge chip to see if there is any discoloration, missing componoents, or anything that looks different from the rest of the board. The USB traces usually snake through the PCIe/PCI slots from the SB to the connectors. – Oct 14 '09 at 1:32.
I had the exact same problem with two 1600 mice. After the first one did that that I called Logitech support and they asked me the problem, asked for the serial number and then shipped me a new one free of charge.
This happened again with my second one, but I did same thing and they shipped me a new 1800 DPI MX518. This is the mouse I am using now for over two years and it's been great. I know I applied a lot of pressure to the cord of my mouse, and that could be the reason for it. Here is Logitech's support website, and if your mouse is still under warranty, I highly recommend. Look at the Windows event logs to see if there is any indication of a service/driver failure. Look at the motherboard settings for integrated peripherals.
Check the setting for USB on chip support. The manual is not clear on the meaning, however, I did have a system that when legacy (1.1 & 2) was enabled, USB devices would disconnect. From the manual I cant tell for sure what the setting on this motherboard means. If you disable on chip the keyboard and mouse are forced to enabled (according to manual) this would seem to imply the enabled setting allows access to other USB devices outside of windows (like boot from USB).